On the eastern banks of the Nyang Chu at the base of a natural amphitheatre of rocky ridges,
GYANTSE is an attractive, relaxed town, offering the splendid sights of the
Kumbum and the old
Dzong , and, despite the rapidly expanding Chinese section of town, it has retained a pleasant, laid-back air. It lies 263km from Lhasa on the southern route and 90km southeast of Shigatse on a good-quality road.
Little is known about the history of any settlement at Gyantse before the fourteenth century when it emerged as the capital of a small kingdom ruled by a lineage of princes hailing originally from northeast Tibet and claiming descent from the legendary Tibetan folk hero, King Gesar of Ling. They allied themselves to the powerful Sakya order and, owing to its position between Lhasa and Shigatse, with India to the south, Gyantse operated as a staging post in the wool trade between Tibet and India. By the mid-fifteenth century, the Gyantse Dzong, Pelkor Chode Monastery and the Kumbum had been built, although decline followed as other local families increased their influence.
Gyantse rose to prominence again in 1904 when Younghusband's British expedition, equipped with modern firearms, approached the town via the trade route from Sikkim, routed 1500 Tibetans at Tuna, killing over half of them, and then marched on Gyantse. In July 1904, the British took the Dzong with four casualties while three hundred Tibetans were killed. From here the British marched on to Lhasa. As part of the ensuing agreement between Tibet and Britain, a British Trade Agency was established in Gyantse and as relations between Tibet and the British in India thawed, the trade route from Calcutta up through Sikkim and on to Gyantse became an effective one
The Town
The best way to get your bearings in Gyantse is to stand at the main traffic intersection at the base of the Dzong. The entrance to the fortress is along the road to the right of the hill, while the road to its left leads to the Kumbum. The road from Shigatse arrives at the intersection to the south, opposite the Dzong, and the old road from Lhasa comes from the southeast.
The original Gyantse Dzong (Mon-Sat 7am-7pm; ¥15) dates from the mid-fourteenth century. However, given the extensive damage caused by the British in 1904, today's remains are a lot more recent. Guides will escort you part of the way around the ruins, unlocking the reconstructed buildings on the way, but then you're free to wander at will. Currently visitors are shown the Meeting Hall , housing a waxworks tableau, the Exhibition Hall , detailing the "Anti-British War" of 1904 in English, and the upper and lower chapels of the Sampal Norbuling Monastery . A few of the murals in the upper chapel probably date from the early fifteenth century, but most of the other artefacts are modern. The best views are from the top of the tallest tower in the north of the complex. You'll need to clamber up some very rickety ladders, but the scenery is well worth it.