Across the modern bridge from Wenchang, the road leads uphill to the outskirts of town and another minibus depot, where you can catch a ride 60km south to the city of QIONGHAI (Jiaji), where China's first Communist cell was formed in 1924. There's little to see, but it's a busy place, unusually tidy and with a healthy glut of markets specializing in locally made cane furniture. Qionghai's most famous resident was Huang Sixiang , a female guerrilla leader on Hainan during the Japanese occupation. The main road through town is Dongfeng Lu, offering air-conditioned rooms at the Guangxing Binguan (¥100-150), and plenty of places to eat in the streets around the heroic revolutionary sculpture which marks the town centre - try the two-storey Meixiang Canting.