The road from Tongshi to
QIONGZHONG (Yinggen) bears east around the base of Wuzhi Shan, with viewing points along the roadside to take in the spectacle of
Baihua Waterfall tumbling off the peak, a spot said to be inhabited by several Li goddesses. Qiongzhong itself is an intensely busy, thoroughly scruffy three-street market centre, with no shortage of places to eat and good-value
accommodation in the white-tiled transport building downhill from the bus station (¥30-75) - look for the circular bus symbol on the roof. About 25km northeast along the Haikou road, the entrance to
Fengmu Deer Farm (daily 9am-4pm; ¥5) is marked by an unmissable stylized concrete deer and a reception centre hoping to tap interest in another rare beast, the
Hainan deer . On the shores of a small reservoir, the farm was established as a breeding centre in 1964 after the Hainan deer became extinct in the wild, and has since reintroduced populations to reserves in the west of the island. There's a small paddock at the back, where visitors can stroke the animals and be deafened by their shrill whistles. There's plenty of passing traffic throughout the day in both directions along the main road.