WANNING (Wancheng), is an unexciting town from where motorbike taxis with sidecars can take you 3km southeast to coastal vistas at Dongshan Ling (East Mountain Ridge), a formation of strangely sculpted and delicately balanced rocks, traced with paths and steps linking strategically placed pavilions and drink vendors. Continuing south along the highway from town, it's about 20km to XINGLONG , a dusty little village of interest for its Tropical Agricultural Research Station , set up by expatriate Chinese from Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia and famed for its coffee, as well as the nearby hot springs resort, 3km from town. The cheapest beds in the area are in Xinglong itself, while the Research Station and hot springs are expensive (cheapest deals around ¥200-300). If you fancy something wilder, try heading 15km south again to NANLIN village, which lies just northwest of a small but protected area of native forests , with some good hiking potential through the low hills.