XILINHOT , 500km northeast of Hohhot and 600km north of Beijing, is probably the most visited town in the whole area, though it is by no means straightforward to get here. The joy of a place like this is that you are already in the grasslands - they begin at the edge of town.

 

Even here, there are CITS-approved grassland sites, and travel services will compete for the honour of escorting you there. Tours from Xilinhot are likely to be cheaper and more tranquil than those operating from Hohhot. Considering, however, that you are so close to the grasslands here, it is quite feasible if you speak a little Chinese to do a private deal with somebody - a travel-service employee, a hotel-worker or a taxi-driver - to take you out to any muchang jia with which they have acquaintance. This needn't cost much: reckon on about ¥2 per kilometre. Given that you are going to stay with a family, it is essential to take a present with you; a bottle of the local baijiu is best. You will still be expected to pay for the pleasure of staying with the family, but the terms are likely to be friendlier. Try to arrange some all-inclusive daily rate which includes all meals and drinks, but don't be too aggressive about it; ¥50 per day is a good rate.

The main difficulty with Xilinhot is getting there in the first place. There is a daily bus from Hohhot (14hr), but you will be barred from getting on it without a travel permit - apply to the Hohhot PSB. The alternatives are either to take a train to Erlianhot, and then try to get a bus from there; or simply to fly directly from Hohhot (or Beijing). The flights from Hohhot leave on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.

In Xilinhot, accommodation is available at the upmarket Baima (¥150-200) or, just behind the bus station, at the Xilinhot (¥75-100).