Chinese-speakers interested in wildlife should make the trip to XUANZHOU , two hours by bus to the southeast of Wuhu across low hills patterned by tea plantations - confusingly, you pass another Wuhu, the county town, halfway there. An untidy but friendly place, Xuanzhou is associated with the production of high-quality art paper (though, still made by hand, this actually comes from Jiangxian , 55km to the southwest), and is also the site of a Chinese alligator farm . Getting out to the farm, which is several kilometres south of town, can be impossible after rain - you're likely to find the road under water and locals paddling between their houses in wooden tubs - otherwise, negotiate with the minibus drivers at the crossroads near the bus station. It's worth the effort because wild populations of these timid alligators are few and confined to Anhui, though a worldwide breeding project co-ordinated by the US Bronx Zoo has boosted their captive numbers to more than one hundred.

 

For accommodation , food and information in Xuanzhou, there's a hostel (¥30-75) to the left of the bus station on the Wuhu road, or the much more upmarket Xuanzhou Binguan (tel 0553/3815350; ¥150-200) - turn right out of the bus station, left at the crossroads and it's on the right. If you can't speak Chinese, try asking CITS at Tunxi or Hefei to phone ahead and arrange a visit for you.