Set on the edge of a flat river basin, YONGDING is an old town today recast as a heavily built up, typically ugly place, whose residents are nevertheless very friendly towards the few foreigners who make it up here. The road from Longyan ends up at a roundabout where you'll find the bus station and various accommodation options; the Jiari Luguan (¥30-75), Tianhe Luguan (¥30-75) and Dongfu Jiudian (¥75-100) are all decent. From here, the main street runs north over the river and into town; immediately on the far bank, Huangcheng Dong Lu forks left into a market area, while steps on the right climb a ridge to a park , with views across town and the countryside. Places to eat surround the bus station area and main streets; all sorts of rice noodles, snacks, and kourou , a Hakka dish made from slices of soya-braised pork belly on a bed of bitter kale. Leaving , there are daily buses to Meizhou in Guangdong, and minibuses through the day back to Longyan, and at least as far east as Hukeng village.